Climb Illiniza Sur
Climbing Illiniza Norte is a rewarding experience for climbers seeking a challenging yet accessible peak in the central Andes of Ecuador. Whether you are a seasoned mountaineer or an ambitious adventurer looking to push your limits, Illiniza Norte offers an unforgettable climb that will test your skills and fortitude before you tackle Cotopaxi or Chimborazo.
Standing at 5,126 meters (16,818 feet), Illiniza Norte is the lower of the twin peaks that make up the Illiniza massif, with Illiniza Sur (5,248 meters) being slightly taller. While Illiniza Norte is less technically demanding than its southern counterpart, it still requires solid mountaineering skills, including the ability to navigate glaciers, scramble over rocky ridges, and handle the high-altitude environment.
Illiniza Norte Approach and Trailhead
The adventure begins from the Refugio Illiniza Norte, a basic mountain hut that serves as the starting point for most climbers. The refuge is located at approximately 4,700 meters (15,420 feet) on the western side of the mountain, and it is usually accessed via a 4x4 vehicle from the nearby town of El Chaupi. The journey from the town to the refuge can take an hour or more, depending on road conditions, which can be challenging due to the steep, winding terrain.
Once at the refuge, climbers typically spend the night to acclimatize before attempting the summit. Acclimatization is crucial when climbing in the Andes, as the altitude can cause altitude sickness if not approached with care. From the refuge, Ecuador Eco Adventure's expert ASEGUIM certified mountain guides will navigate the group up the standard route to the summit of Illiniza Norte. The route takes climbers along a well-established trail that starts with a steep climb up rocky terrain and then transitions onto a glacier. Most climbers use crampons and ice axes for the glacier section, as it can be icy and slippery, especially early in the morning. The route involves a combination of hiking, scrambling, and moderate technical climbing, particularly in the upper sections.
The summit ridge itself is narrow and exposed, requiring climbers to stay alert while navigating through some technical rock sections. A rope is typically used here for safety, especially for less experienced climbers or when the weather conditions are unfavorable. While the rock climbing on Illiniza Norte is not considered extreme, the exposure can be intimidating, especially in windy or foggy conditions.
Illiniza Norte Summit and Views
After several hours of climbing, the final push to the summit of Illiniza Norte offers a sense of accomplishment and provides sweeping views of the surrounding landscapes. From the summit, climbers can enjoy panoramic vistas of the nearby volcanoes, including Cotopaxi to the north and the majestic Antisana to the east. The high-altitude panorama, with its dramatic mix of snow-capped peaks and volcanic landscapes, is one of the most stunning aspects of this climb.
On clear days, the view is absolutely mesmerizing, with the valleys and surrounding Andean peaks stretching out as far as the eye can see. The feeling of standing atop Illiniza Norte, one of Ecuador’s most iconic peaks, is a powerful and humbling experience for any mountaineer.
Illiniza Norte Climb Logistics and Safety
Though Illiniza Norte is considered an accessible climb, it is still a high-altitude route, and climbers should be aware of the risks associated with altitude sickness and extreme weather conditions. Temperatures can plummet below freezing, even during the day, and the mountain is subject to frequent cloud cover and rain. Weather patterns can change quickly, so climbers need to be prepared for all conditions.
Because the climb involves glacier travel, it is highly recommended to hire a certified guide, especially for less experienced mountaineers. Guides provide valuable knowledge of the terrain, weather, and safety procedures, and they help ensure a successful and safe summit attempt. Additionally, a guide will be familiar with the best timing for the climb, as starting early in the morning can help avoid the often unpredictable afternoon weather.
Illiniza Norte Climb Includes:
- Transportation to and from Riobamba
- Entrance permits to the Chimborazo National Park
- Accommodation in the Refugio (Base Camp)
- Dinner in the Refugio before the climb
- Snacks and Drinks during the climbAll breakfasts, lunches and dinners & dining
Illiniza Norte Climb Costs
This is a complete gear list you need for climbing Ecuador's peaks:
✓ Mountaineering boots
✓ Crampons
✓ Gaiters
✓ Inner thermal pants
✓ Outer waterproof pants, or soft shell pants
✓ Polar Fleece Jacket
✓ Down Jacket
✓ Waterproof jacket
✓ Warm hat and buffs
✓ Inner gloves
✓ Outter gloves or mittens
✓ Helmet
✓ Headlamp
✓ Harness
✓ Ice Axe (Piolet)
✓ Sleeping bag
✓ Back pack 35-45 lt
✓ Sun glasses or googles
Ecuador Eco Adventure can provide free of charge the following items:
✓ Mountaineering boots
✓ Crampons
✓ Gaiters
✓ Mittens
✓ Harness
✓ Ice Axe
✓ Helmet
✓ Sleeping bags
✓ Duffel bag to carry gear.
Clients can rent the following at $10 per item:
✓ Headlamp
✓ Trekking poles



